The eclectic atmosphere blends familiar Chinese elements like Forties-style Shanghainese powder blue floral wallpaper and kitschy red lanterns with updated details like contemporary gold chairs. Cheeky humor dots the space, like the prominent painting of a giant panda dressed like Biggie Smalls. Similarly, the menu remixes elements from a range of regional Chinese dishes – some restrained, others loud. Of the starters, the Chongqing chicken ($8) and the tea egg salad ($8.88) were standouts. The former is like a fancy, grownup version of popcorn chicken, the bite-size meat fried in batter, then tossed in an addictive Sichuan chili oil that gives a lip-numbing “málà” or “icy-hot” quality. The creamy tea-marinated quail eggs brought whimsy and umami to the bed of lightly dressed HausBar Farms bitter greens with crunchy radish slices, puffed rice, and edible flowers.