Every cut and score was executed with care, from the more familiar aji (Japanese horse mackerel) with the classic shiso and grated ginger, to the lesser-seen iwashi, a clean and vibrant sardine from Japan. As a lover of shellfish innards, I was smitten when Phan accented the awabi (abalone) with a sauce made with its liver, and seasoned the spot prawn’s lightly grilled body with the briny tomalley. The crescendo rose to a peak with the Miyazaki A5 Wagyu and the toro with freshly grated wasabi. Both delicate pieces melted as I chewed and made my eyes roll back. A chorus of “mmm”s cut through the library silence.